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8 World's Highest Mountains in Nepal Over 8000m

  • Author: Naba Raj Amgai
  • Posted on: Thu Oct 8, 2020
highest mountains in nepal

Nepal has 8 out of 14 mountains in the world above 8000m. Nepal is home to the tallest mountain in the world, Mt Everest. Being a land of the Himalayan peaks, Nepal offers a lifetime experience in the lap of snowy capped mountains. These mountains have a thrilling image and for mountaineers, it is a dream come true to climb all the highest peaks in the world. Mountain climbing is one of the most thrilling and rewarding activities that pumps the adrenaline rush through your veins.

All these mountains are open for mountaineers and climbers. Some have already climbed these mountains and proved their worth. Here, we have a list of 8 world's highest mountains in Nepal over 8000m which provides you the necessary information for your intake on the next adventure.

1. Mount Everest (8,848 meters) - The highest mountain in the world

Mount Everest

Mt Everest is the highest mountain on the Earth with an altitude of 8848m (29029ft). It is located in the Himalayas on Nepal, Sagarmatha Zone, and China (Tibet) border. Situated in the Solukhumbu district of Nepal, Everest is famous for the highest peak and because of its beautiful Sherpa village, Buddhist monasteries, diverse flora and fauna.  It can be accessed from both the countries of Nepal and Tibet, China.

 In Nepal, it is named Sagarmatha whereas, in Tibet, it is called Chomolungma. The one in Nepal is located at the Khumbu Glacier on the eastern side of the country whereas the one in Tibet is situated at the Rongbuk Glacier.

Witnessing the tallest mountain on earth, Mt Everest is a dream come true which was made possible for the first by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay who summited the Everest on May 29, 1953. The Everest Base Camp has two main camping areas at Mt Everest, the North Base Camp in Tibet and the South Base Camp in Nepal. These base camps are located exactly in the opposite direction.

Everest Base Camp Trek has been a popular trekking destination in Nepal. Mainly trekkers come in the spring and autumn season where the climate and temperature are suitable and you can clearly see the landscape around you.

Major Facts of Mount Everest

  • Mt Everest is 29,029 feet or 8848 meters above the sea level
  • The summit is the border of Nepal in the south and China or Tibet in the north
  • It is estimated to be over 60 million years old
  • Everest was shaped by the movement of the Indian tectonic plate pushing up and against the Asian plate
  • Everest is called Chomolungma by the Tibetan people which translates as the mother goddess of the universe
  • Everest grows by about a quarter of an inch (0.25") annually
  • The mountain consist of various types of shale, limestone and marble
  • The rocky summit is roofed with deep snow all year long
  • The wind can blow over 200 mph
  • The temperature can be -80F
  • Like all mountains around the world the local people were the first to discover it
  • Everest was named Sagarmatha by the Nepal Government which means goddess of the sky
  • It was first identified for the world by a British survey team lead by Sir George Everest in 1841
  • Everest was first named Peak 15 and measured at 29,002 feet in the year 1856
  • In 1865, it was named Mount Everest, after Sir George Everest
  • Using GPS technology, the peak was measured at 29,035 feet or 8850 meters in 1999
  • Enjoy Flag Cloud, Highest Wind Vane above the sea level flying above Mt Everest on clear sunny days
  • Explore the sunrise and sunset of Mt Everest which is an incomparable experience for anybody
  • Get amazed to see the shiny sky if you stand the cold temperature at night
  • Explore the biggest glacier in Everest, Ronguk Glacier situated at the high altitude between 5300 to 6300m
  • There are two major climbing routes, one from the southeast in Nepal and the other from the north in Tibet, China  
  • In perfect weather and health, you need 60 days to complete the whole expedition including arrival/departure and acclimatization
  • The best time to get to Mt Everest is during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November).
  • The South Base Camp is often visited during these seasons due to clear weather and less cold. The visibility of the peaks is clear with clear blue sky and better road conditions.

2. Mt Kanchenjunga (8598 meters) -Third Highest Mountain

Mt Kanchenjunga

Kanchenjunga is the third tallest mountain in the world with an altitude of 8598 meters. The trip to Kanchenjunga rewards with the stunning view of the Jannu Himalayas range from the Mirgin La.

Kanchenjunga, also known as Treasure of Snow, was first climbed by British Team in 1956 AD. Kanchenjunga is a remote trekking area in Eastern Nepal. You can explore Snow Leopard, Musk Deer, Blue Sheep and many more animals.

Kanchenjunga was considered to be the highest peak in the world until 1852. It was so because the calculation was done wrong. After the investigation by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India, it was found that Kanchenjunga was actually the third tallest peak.

Major Facts of Mt Kanchenjunga

  • Kanchenjunga was thought as the highest mountain in the world until 1852
  • The name is collective name referring to Kanchenjunga Five peaks thus the name translates to “Five Treasure of Snow”
  • Mt. Kanchenjunga has four routes that are South-West, North-West, North-East, and North-Eastern
  • To climb from Nepal the South-west, North-west and, North-east are the possible routes. The remaining one North-Eastern is from Sikkim, India
  • Among these, North-west and South-west routes are preferred by the trekkers on the season of spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November)
  • Kanchenjunga has 4 routes to climb the peak among which southwest, northeast, northwest lie in Nepal and the south-eastern routes lies in the Sikkim side
  • Joe Brown and George Band were the first to climb Kanchenjunga
  • The Summit of the peak is untouched as locals worship the mountain as their deity
  • Doug Scott, Peter Boardman, and Joe Tasker summited the peak without auxiliary oxygen on 16 May 1979 AD
  • There is a belief that Yeti, mountain deity, can be seen in the peak
  • Kanchenjunga is the third tallest mountain in the world with five treasures of snow and Kanchenjunga Base Camps
  • Various experience of glacier hike in Yalung Glacier
  • Stunning view of Mt. Makalu, the fifth tallest mountain along with east face of Mt. Everest, the highest mountain in the world
  • Pristine rhododendron forest, native vegetation, high alpine passes and typical agriculture can be experienced during Kanchenjunga Trekking
  • Abundant wildlife species like musk deer, snow leopard, blue sheep and some believe in presence of Yeti in the Kanchenjunga Region
  • Mt. Kanchenjunga is considered sacred peak, so climber for respect for local believes climber never push themselves on actual summit of Mt. Kanchenjunga instead they stop below few yards of actual summit making it untouched
  • Before Mt. Everest was explored and declared as the highest mountain in the world, Kanchenjunga was considered the highest mountain in the world
  • Kanchenjunga is at the far eastern part of Nepal and the least visited area in Nepal
  • Mt Kanchenjunga offers the journey through the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area, the richest protected area in Nepal, because of diverse flora, fauna and other creatures called the park home.
  • The entire Kanchenjunga Trek route goes inside the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area itself.
  • Another major attraction of Kanchenjunga is the numerous mountains that you get to explore throughout the trek.
  • Explore and get to know about various villages which are noteworthy attractions of the trek.

3. Lhotse (8,516 meters) - Fourth Highest Mountain

Lhotse

Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on the Earth with the elevation of 8516m. The long east-west crest is situated south of Mt Everest and the summits of the two peaks are connected via South Col, a vertical ridge that does not drop below 8000m. Lhotse is usually mistaken as south peak of the Everest massif.  Fritz Luchsinger and Ernest Reiss were the first mountaineers who climbed Lhotse in 1956. There are two subsidiary peaks, Lhotse Shar, east of the main summit and Nuptse, a high mountain on the mountain’s west ridge.

The route to Lhotse is same as Mt Everest from the Everest Base Camp until Camp 3. Lhotse is a like a neglected younger sibling of Mt Everest as Mt Everest gets all the attention while Lhotse is less busy. When Lhotse was first climbed in 1956, the Lhotse middle actually remained the highest unclimbed point on Earth for several years. Later, it was climbed by Russian expedition in 2011.

Major Facts about Mt Lhotse

  • Mount Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world
  • It was first summited by a Swiss expedition in 1956
  • The summit Lhotse East or Middle (8,414 m) is located on the edge between Main summit of Lhotse 8,516 m and summit Lhotse Shar 8,400 m
  • The climb up to Lhotse Main by itself or Lhotse Shar is the task of separate expedition
  • In 1994 the team from Switzerland tried to make a traverse to Lhotse East but climbed the Lhotse Main
  • The Russian team also tried to ascent this last Himalayan citadel on spring 1997 but due to bad weather in Everest region did not allow to do it
  • On the descent from the Main Lhotse summit, the strongest high altitude climber of Russia Vladimir Bashkirov had died
  • Lhotse to the south of the world’s tallest peak is a part of Everest massif
  • It is 3km south of Mount Everest, where South Col separates the two peaks, thus considering it as an independent mountain
  • It was first climbed by F. Luchsinger & E. Reiss in 1956
  • An impressive ring of three peaks makes up the Lhotse massif: Lhotse East or Middle, Lhotse east or middle, Lhotse & Lhotse Shar
  • The South Face of Lhotse is one of the largest mountain faces in the world
  • Enjoy the similar route and technicality with Everest 
  • Explore the route that veteran Sherpa Guides have used to summit Everest and Lhotse many times
  • Mount Lhotse has a very stunning south face and is the steepest south face to climb
  • It is considered as one of the most challenging climb in the world
  • Beautiful views of magnificent peaks like Mt Everest, Mt Nuptse, Mt Cho-Oyu, Mt Ama Dablam, Mt Pumori, Island Peak, Thamserku, and other peaks
  • Explore the enthralling adventure in the Snow covered region to ascend the Lhotse South wall and view the majestic sceneries
  • Get to know the traditional Sherpa lifestyle, art, culture, architecture dresses, harmony and many others

How to get to Mt Lhotse summit?

To get to Mt Lhotse, you have to visit from the Base camp to Climb IV that is given below. The expedition can be done during the season of spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November).

Base Camp, 5400m to Camp I, 5900m

Ascend through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp I, 5900m, early before the sun starts melting up the glacier. The Khumbu Icefall is a moving glacier and heavy with cracks. A team of Sherpas called the Icefall Doctors to maintain a track through this area with rope and ladders. To reduce the time spent on the Icefall, avoid any unwanted stops. The land levels out just before Camp I.

Camp I, 5900m to Camp II, 6500m

Next day we walk up the Western Cwm, a broad valley built by the Khumbu Glacier, to Camp II, 6500m. There are deep edges, some marked with fixed ladders and some hidden by snow. The sunlight is immense here, as it reflects off the snow on every side of the valley. We are bounded by the soaring flanks of Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest’s South West face. Here we spend two nights acclimatizing to the altitude and then move further up the Lhotse Face to Camp III, 7300m.

Camp II, 6500m to Camp III, 7300m

From Camp II, ascend to the Lhotse Face. It can be difficult to get a foothold because of wall of rock hard blue ice and packed snow.  Remain into fixed-line all the way to Camp III which is halfway up the Lhotse face. Acclimatize for one night before heading to the next Camp.

In case of good weather make a direct ascent from Base Camp to Camp II and the next day to Camp III. Next day, start early to reach Camp IV, 7900m.

Camp III, 7300m to Camp IV, 7900m

A steep ascend from Camp III leads to the Yellow Band, a limestone layer that cuts through these mountains. Most climbers use oxygen by this point. It can be immensely cold before the sun reaches, mainly if there is a wind, but once the sun climbs over Lhotse, it burns through the thin air.

The Yellow Band is the milestone where we distinct from the expeditions to Everest and veers to the right towards some rock shelves, which are called the turtle shell. This rocky outcropping is where we establish Lhotse Camp IV, 7900m.

Camp IV, 7900m to Lhotse Summit, 8516m

Just above Camp IV reach the 500-meter high gully of ice onto the final summit ridge. Narrow and as steep as 60 degrees in places, the Lhotse Couloir is the passageway to the summit ridge. After reaching the peak, climbers descend to Camp II and to Base Camp.

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4. Makalu (8,463 meters) - Fifth Highest Mountain

Makalu

Makalu, 8463m above sea level, is the fifth highest peak in the world which is situated 14 miles east of Mt Everest. The size itself is stunning but the structure is a perfect pyramid with four sharp edges, making it mesmerizing to see.

The journey to Mt Makalu is considered a challenging climb because only five of its first sixteen tries were successful. A French group climbed the peak in 1955. Chomo Lonzo is a subsidiary peak of Makalu which is on the north of the higher summit.

Recommended Read: Trekking In Makalu Region Of Nepal - 3 Best Treks, Best Time To Visit And Tips

Major Facts of Mt Makalu

  • Makalu has two prominent subsidiary peaks: Kangchungtse, or Makalu II and Chomo Lonzo
  • Kangchungtse, also called Makalu II, is 7,678 meters high and about 3 kilometers north-northwest of the main summit
  • Chomo Lonzo is 7,804 meters above sea level
  • The name of the mountain, Makalu, is originated from the Sanskrit Maha Kala, a name for the Hindu God Shiva that means “Big Black.”
  • The Chinese name for the peak is Makaru
  • During the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the first climb of the secondary summits Kangchungtse and Chomo Lonzo
  • Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco
  • Visit Makalu Base Camp 4870m, the base camp of the 5th highest mountain in the world
  • Explore the Makalu Barun National Park (Natural Paradise)
  • Majestic view of Mt Makalu 8463m, Mt Kanchenjunga 8586m, Mt Everest 8848m, Chamlang Himal and many other peaks
  • Explore Barun Valley, Barun glaciers and High altitude Lakes
  • Hike through Rhododendron forest Wildlife such as Red panda, Rivers, Georges as green valley
  • Experience the hospitality of beautiful Rai and Sherpa villages
  • Witness remote valley and rural area of eastern Nepal
  • Getting to Mt Manaslu is a journey to the off the beaten track along with the serene beauty of nature
  • Explore the pristine nature and culture untouched by the modernity.
  • The first person to summit peak was Toshio Imanishi, Japanese and Gyalgen Norbu, a Sherpa on May 9th 1956
  • Around 1100 people have summited this 8,000+ meters peak
  • From the peak, witness other peaks such as Himlung Himal, Hiunchuli, Cheo Himal, Kanguru, Siringi, and Ngadi, Ganesh Himal and Annapurna II (7,937m)
  • Explore the diverse varieties of flora and fauna in the Manaslu Conservation Area
  • It is home to 33 species of mammals, 210 species of butterfly, 110 species of birds and encounter animals like Snow Leopard, Himalayan Thar and Musk Deer
  • The vegetation here has 19 different types of the forest with 2000 flowering plants.
  • Explore the medicinal and aromatic plants such as Himalayan pine and rhododendron
  • While one of the most exciting 8,000-meter peaks, with steep ascends, exposed edges, and rock climbing on the peak pyramid, Makalu is also not dangerous via its normal route.
  • The climbing is divided into three sections: easy glacier climbing on the lower slopes; steep snow and ice climbing to the Makalu-La saddle, and snow slopes to the steep French Couloir and a finish up a rocky ridge to the peak

5. Cho Oyu (8,201 meters) - Sixth Highest Mountain

Cho Oyu

Cho Oyu is the sixth highest peak in the world, situated on a short distance to the west from Everest and Lhotse. It has an altitude of 8201 meters and lies in the Khumbu region of Eastern Nepal. Cho Oyu is translated as "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The towering peak stands with the Everest above the surrounding peaks. It became known landmark to climbers climbing the Everest’s North Face. On the west side of Cho Oyu is the Nangpa La, famous for being the easiest 8000m peak for trekkers.

Cho Oyu is the easiest of the 8000m peak to summit because of the slight slopes. The Cho Oyu is only a couple of kilometers away from Nangpa La Pass, the major trading hub of Tibet and Khumbu Sherpa.

Major Facts of Mt Cho Oyu

  • Witness the world’s 6th tallest and easiest 8000m peak, Mt Cho Oyu
  • Cho Oyu is considered as one of the easier access and safe 8000-meter climbing peaks
  • On 19 October 1954, an Austrian expedition scaled the Mountain via its northwest ridge
  • The climber also experience of high mountaineering and skill of climbing too
  • The West face of the mountain is used as it has two short technical sections to reach at the top
  • Cho Oyu expedition offers the chances to explore Cho Oyu National Park and its beautiful view around there
  • Cross the traditional trade route connecting Tibetans and Sherpa, the Nangpa La Pass which is few kilometers west of Cho Oyu Advance Base Camp
  • Witness the ancient and culturally rich towns of Tibet along with the plateau
  • Relish the Lalung La Pass (5050m) and get the closeup views of Mt Everest
  • Take in the vista of Everest and Cho Oyu both from the Tibetan Plateau
  • Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan
  • Cho Oyu is situated in the Himalayas and is near to the west of the world's highest mountain, Mount Everest
  • It's one of the soaring peaks standing with Everest well above the neighboring mountains
  • On the west of Cho Oyu is Nangpa La, a 5,716m glaciated pass aids as the main trading hub in the Tibetans and the Khumbu's Sherpas

How to get to Mt Cho Oyu Summit?

Cho Oyu has three major ridges: the Northwest, the Northeast, and the Southwest and impressive Southwest face rising 3000m from the Advance Base Camp. The best time to trek from April to May and Late September.

South Side

Southside of Cho Oyu is a brilliant climbing area for high altitude climbers. In 1994, Yasushi Yamanoi did the first solo ascent via the South West face in 14 hours.

North Side

The Northwest Ridge is a normal route for commercial operators and for first time climbers of 8000m peaks. It doesn’t require technical climbing skills,

The route ascends the screed and fern on the west side of the slope leading to Camp 1 at 6400m (21,000') at the bottom of the Northwest ridge proper of Cho Oyu. Camp 1 location is subtle as it is well protected from the weather by the ridge itself and the rocks below the Northwest ridge base.

From Camp 1 the route leads to the Northwest ridge and then opens out onto the upper mountain's Northwest face. Camp 2 is situated at about 7200m (23,500'). From the true summit, there is a stunning view of Mt. Everest and Mt. Makalu.

6. Dhaulagiri (8,167 meters) - Seventh Highest Mountain

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri, which translates to White Mountain, is the 7th tallest peak in the world. It is a huge Himalayan Massif in the north central Nepal. It measures 8167m from the sea level. After its recognition by the world in 1808, it substituted Ecuador Chimborazo as the world's claimed tallest peak.

Dhaulagiri’s crest stretches for 30miles, structure to a tangled topography of bending ridges, icefalls and glaciers. Along the main peak, many pyramid-shaped summits rise, out of which four of these rise above 25000 feet. The Dhaulagiri was first climbed on 13 May 1960.

Major facts of Mt Dhaulagiri

  • Mount Dhaulagiri situated in Nepal, which is the seventh tallest mountain in the world
  • It was first climbed in 1960 by Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Kurt Diemberger, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji
  • North and Southwest surround this mountain by contributors of the Bheri River and southeast by Myagdi Khola
  • Mt. Dhaulagiri has 5 ridges and south and west faces
  • The elevation of this Peak is 8,167 meters (26,795 ft.) above sea level
  • Mount Dhaulagiri has become the main point for the tourists and the climbers
  • Dhaulagiri Mountain’s name is originated from Sanskrit which means “Dazzling” and “White Mountain”
  • Traverse through the untouched valley of Myagdi, thick terraced hillsides, rural villages, rugged terrain of massif Dhaulagiri.
  • Dhaulagiri -l is the highest point of the Gandaki river basin.
  • The Kali Gandaki River flows between the two rivers in the Kaligandaki Gorge, the world’s deepest gorge.

How to get to Mt Dhaulagiri Summit?

The best season to get to Mt Dhaulagiri is in spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). You can take the normal route is via Northeast Ridge, a route climbed by Swiss-Austrian expedition in 1960. Typically 4 camps are set up for the climbing. The Advance Base Camp is made at 5,300m just to store the gear. Hence the Base Camp 4750m is used as Advance Base Camp for accommodation. Read: Best Trekking Season In Nepal

Camp 1 is built at 5,900m on the Col east from the Advance Base Camp. Along this trail, you may encounter some avalanche risk as well as cracks danger.

Camp 2 is established at 6,400m, where the ropes are fixed and you need some technical climbing experience.

Camp 3 (7400m) is towards the west with steep ice and snow climbing along the mountain's edge. Gradually ascend and descend lead towards the East Ridge, where you get strong wind before reaching camp 3. This is the most difficult part of the climb.

From camp 3 ascend for the summit and return to camp 3 if the weather and health conditions allow you. With difficult conditions, the emergency is to setup bevy at 7,900m in order to try another summit push the next day

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7. Manaslu (8,163 meters) - Eight Highest Mountain

Manaslu

Manaslu is the eight highest peaks in the world, which is located about 40 miles east of Annapurna. It is measured 8163m from the sea level. The glacial ridges and valleys offer viable ways from all directions and it ends in the mountain that towers steeply above its landscape. Manaslu is originated from the Sanskrit word Manasa which means mountain of the spirit.

The well-known trekking in the Manaslu region is Manaslu Trek also called Manaslu Circuit Trek. The female Japanese expedition climbed the mountain becoming the first woman to climb an 8000m peak. Manaslu was first climbed by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu in 1956. Locals restricted the team from reaching the top believing their previous tries had displeased the Gods and caused avalanches to kill 18 people.

Major facts of Mt Manaslu

  • Manaslu is situated on 64 km east of Annapurna in Gorkha District of Nepal
  • The Manaslu Conservation Area formed in 1998 under the National Parks and Wildlife Conservation Act
  • The Manaslu region is known as Manaslu Conservation Area which has sub-tropical Himalayan foothills to Trans-Himalayan high pastures
  • Manaslu rewards several routes to climbers Himalchuli, Ngadi Chuli, and Baudha peak surrounds Manaslu
  • The permanent snow line is above 5,000mtrs elevation. The yearly rainfall is about 1900 mm during monsoon time
  • Witness over 110 types of bird, 33 mammals, and 11 butterflied and 3 reptiles
  • Overall, there are 19 types of forests and other dominant vegetation has recorded from the area
  • Rich in Tibetan Buddhism culture and unspoiled nature
  • Learn Nepali lifestyle, culture, tradition, language, festival and so on
  • Witness the Mt. Manaslu range, Himlung Himal along with other mountain ranges
  • Trek at Birendra Glacier Lake and Manaslu Base Camp

How to get to Mt Manaslu Summit?

You get to Mt Manaslu via The Advanced Base Camp (ABC) (4800m), located at the Manaslu Glacier's lateral moraine. It can be visited within 7-8 days trek or you fly into Samagaon by helicopters from Kathmandu on your advance demand. After, you take the following route:

  • Manaslu has many interesting trails leading to the common summit and many of them have been already climbed and explored.
  • The climb is upfront and only slightly more technical than Cho Oyu, however with low Base Camp it is a long ascend and with moderately high objective avalanche risk.
  • Traditionally there are 4 camps above base camp C1 (5,500m), C2 (6,300m), C3 (6,700m) and C4 (7,300m). The land on the ascents varies from glacier passing to steep snow steps and needs a good insight of basic alpine climbing techniques.

8. Annapurna I (8,091 meters) - Tenth Highest Mountain

Annapurna I

Annapurna I is a majestic Himalayan massif which is the tenth tallest mountain in the world of 8091meters.  It is situated east of Kali Gandaki Gorge, the deepest gorge in the world. The peak has the glacier on its north western and western slope which flows into the gorge. Annapurna is derived from a Sanskrit word translating to Goddess of Harvest. Out of many mountains of Annapurna range, five are labeled using the name Annapurna. The two highest (Annapurna I and II) faces in the massif's western and eastern ends.

Annapurna region is famous for trekking for which many trekkers gather for Annapurna Circuit Trekking and Annapurna Base Camp Trek.

Major facts of Mt Annapurna

  • Annapurna is derived from a Sanskrit name that means “abundant of food”
  • “Annapurna” is translated as the “Harvest Goddess.”
  • The entire Annapurna massif is 7,629 square kilometers
  • It is protected and known as the Annapurna Conservation Area, the first and largest conservation area in Nepal
  • It is the home place for world-class treks, such as the Annapurna Circuit trek and Base Camp trek
  • The top of Annapurna is of limestone like Mount Everest
  • The massif has thirty peaks in total, varying in height
  • One peak is over 8,000 meters or 26,000 feet
  • Thirteen peaks have the height of 7,000 meters or 23,000 feet
  • Sixteen more peaks are as high as 6,000 meters or 20,000 feet
  • There are seven main peaks on the Annapurna Massif: Annapurna I Main; Annapurna II; Annapurna III; Annapurna IV; Gangapurna; and Annapurna South
  • Some of the minor peaks of the Annapurna Massif are: Annapurna I Central, Annapurna I East, Lachenal Peak, Annapurna Fang, Khangsar Kang, Tarke Kang, and Tilicho Peak, to name a few
  • The first climbing expedition on the Annapurna Main I was the “French Annapurna Expedition” of 1950
  • Mount Annapurna Expedition I is situated at 8,091 meters – a 10th highest mountain of the world
  • Superb views of Annapurna I, Annapurna II, Annapurna IV, Annapurna South, Dhaulagiri, Lamjung Himal, Gangapurna, Himalchuli, Machhapuchhare (Fishtail), Hiunchuli and several peaks within Annapurna Mountain Ranges
  • Discover the cultural and traditional villages, including the region’s flora and fauna in one of the most delightful spots on Planet
  • Chance to gain a lifetime mountaineering experience
  • It has a higher casualty rate than any other peaks on this list, with 32% of attempts to reach the top of the mountain causing in a fatality.

How to get to Mt Annapurna I Summit?

Mt Annapurna is a famous trekking destination where many trekkers and climbers come to visit at spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). The climbing route of Mt Annapurna is:

  • Annapurna standard route is through the West face and Northwest Ridge, a very difficult route where Annapurna is the most dangerous 8000m peaks.
  • The most difficult is a section between camp 1 and 2 with a very uneven and broken glacier with dangling Seracs ready to crack any time, being major cause of death, and avalanche risk.
  • The climb is done with 3 camps. It takes two hours to get from the Advance Base Camp to the bottom of the climb, facing steep 500m hike with fixed ropes and danger of falling services.
  • From Camp 1 to Camp 2 the climbing is slightly less sheer also hard with still high objective avalanche risk. This section requires also a set of about 1000m of fixed ropes.
  • Camp 2 to Camp 3 requires bends navigation on the snowfield between Seracs of the crack glacier. There are still 1000m of fixed ropes needed.
  • Summit attempt is on a bare ridge but it doesn’t require fixed ropes, it is done as the free ascent.

  • Author: Naba Raj Amgai
  • Posted on: Thursday Oct 8, 2020
Naba Raj

About Author - Naba Raj Amgai

Naba Raj Amgai, stepped into the world of travel and tourism in 1996. He is Founder and Managing Director of Third Rock Adventures.

Beginning his journey in the tourism industry as a humble Porter Guide to founding hospitality establishments and an adventure travel company, he has come a long way.

In a career spanning more than two decades, he has achieved more than anybody dreams of achieving. Along with his professional achievements, his selfless contribution towards his community and society has won him a lot of accolades and praises.

Having dedicated more than two decades in the tourism and hospitality sector, he has amassed a wealth of experience.

After passing high school, he began helping out some trekking guides and was soon recruited as a porter guide at a reputed trekking agency. Within a short time, he was individually guiding clients across the well-known trails of the Himalayas.

He went on to lead tour groups on multi-country tours to Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan and India. Being a part of mountain climbing expeditions familiarised him with expedition logistics and operations. Later on, he went to become the Executive Director and took over the reins of Operations, Sales and Marketing departments. Spending several years in the tourism field has made Naba Raj Amgai a destination expert.

Travelling is his passion and he has been to many countries across the world – USA, Canada, Australia, Japan, Holland, Germany, Austria and many parts of Asia.

His journeys to different parts of the world have enriched his travel experience and knowledge. This experience has been instrumental in planning and organizing successful trips for several clients.

As of today many reputed travel companies, hotels and restaurants are under his leadership. A dynamic and proactive leader, he continues to inspire and motivate people from all walks of life.

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Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal
+977-9851055684 , +977-014544105
North America
Europe
864 route de la Marqueze, 40230 Josse
+33 (0) 674618156 , Stuart Butler
Australia
10 Terrigal Drive Noble Park North
+61 402 752 312 , Collin Loke
Tibet
Sera Road/ Tashi Xintsun, Lhasa, Tibet
+86 139 0890 7271 , Dawa Tsering
Bhutan
Changlam, Thimphu 11001, Bhutan
+975 77 615 269 , Tsheten Chophel