Island Peak Expedition of 4 days from Chhukung is the best option for those who want to climb Island Peak but have a tight budget. This cost-friendly adventure gives you the freedom to trek to Chhukung by yourself and receives our climbing assistance from the mountain base. We offer you a guide, climbing permit, camping logistics, and group climbing equipment. You only have to show up at Chhukung, and we will take it from there.
Island Peak, located in the Khumbu region, is a popular trekking peak. It is usually the first choice of novice climbers looking to ascend a major Himalayan mountain. Island Peak also offers ideal conditions for experienced climbers to brush up their climbing skills.
For climbers looking for an acclimatization climb before they scale 8,000m or 7,000m peaks, Island Peak Expedition is the perfect mountain. Though there are few technical portions, you can climb the Peak within a day. You can return to Chhukung the same day you summit. An experienced guide with more than 20 years of experience in climbing will help you up the mountain.
|Day 1||Arrive in Chhukung and Meet Climbing Team (5,546m/18,196ft)|
|Day 2||Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp and Pre-Climb training at Island Peak Base Camp (5,200m/17,061ft) - 3-4 hrs|
|Day 3||Island Peak Base Camp to Island Peak Summit and back to Chhukung (6,189m/20,306ft) - 10-12 hrs|
|Day 4||Contingency day|
Island Peak or Imja Tse is a mountain that offers you the perfect Himalayan peak climbing experience. Standing tall at 6,189m, one can reach the mountain's summit from the base camp and return in one day. Island Peak Expedition from Chhukung, which only takes 4 days and begins from Chhukung, offers a budget-friendly and flexible option for those climbers needing only climbing support. Guide, climbing permit, camping logistics at the Island Peak Base Camp are arranged by the company.
Your Island Peak expedition adventure begins from Chhukung. At this Sherpa settlement, you meet your guide and expedition crew. After checking the gear and equipment, the team heads out to Island Peak Base Camp, where pre-climb training is conducted. Our experienced climbing Sherpa will demonstrate the use of climbing equipment and let you try them out. Under his guidance, you try rappelling and abseiling using a harness, rope, ascenders, and descenders.
As the route to Island peak has some challenging technical sections, the pre-climb training will certainly boost the confidence of novice climbers. The peak also lies close to Mount Everest, making it the ideal choice for expedition members looking for an acclimatization climb before the big Everest summit push. With technical portions just ideal for polishing the technical climbing skills, Island Peak is the perfect mountain to practice climbing before an 8,000m summit.
Designated as a 'trekking peak,' the Island peak was first climbed in 1953. Since the peak looked like an island standing alone, Eric Shipton, a British explorer, named the mountain 'Island Peak.'
Even though the summit can be reached in a single day, one has to remember that it is physically draining. Walking and climbing continuously for 10-12 hours at high altitudes needs a lot of physical and mental strength. The climb will test your endurance limit to the maximum.
The climbing experience though not necessary, can be an advantage. One has to be physically fit to take on this challenge. The summit push involves waking up in the early hours and climbing up the mountain at 1 AM. A tough 10 plus hours of hiking and climbing on rock, snow, and ice will take you to the summit and back. Man ropes, as well as fixed ropes, will be used. You can expect a couple of crevasses en route, which will be crossed using ladders.
A 300m ice wall before reaching the ridge leading to the summit is the toughest portion of the ascent. The ascent and descent on this portion of the trail are hazardous, and one needs to be extra cautious while tackling this section. The summit's final walk takes you to an exposed ridge from where you get awe-inspiring views of the Khumbu peaks. Though Island Peak lies close to Mount Everest, one cannot view the world's tallest mountain from Island peak as it lies behind the Lhotse summit. However, close-up views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Makalu, Baruntse look equally impressive.
This short Island Peak Expedition itinerary is for those independent trekkers and climbers who only need help with the logistics while climbing Island Peak. As our climbing crew camps out at the Island Peak Base Camp throughout the climbing season, you can trek to Chhukung anytime to begin your Island Peak Expedition adventure. You spend a night at a local teahouse and another night camping at Island Peak Base Camp.
If you need a complete trekking and climbing package, you can check out our Island Peak Climbing for 14 days. Similarly, if you would like to trek Everest Base Camp combine with climbing, then 'Island Peak Climbing with EBC 19 Days' trek is a perfect blend for trekking and climbing in the Everest Region.
Trek to Chhukung and meet with our guide and climbing crew. A small village at the base of Island Peak, Chhukung has a few teahouses climbing gear, and equipment rental outlets where you can hire any items you need for climbing Island Peak. Our guide will help you if you need any assistance to rent your gear.
Overnight in Chhukung.
After breakfast, you depart from Chhukung and head to Island Peak Base Camp. You ascend a path that lies close to the Lhotse and Imja glaciers. The views of the mountains and glaciers are terrific and breathtaking. After a sweaty ascent, you reach the Island Peak Base Camp.
Leave your things in your one-person tent and have lunch. Our crew will have a kitchen tent set up to prepare you and other climbers for nutritious meals. After having lunch at the dining tent furnished with chairs and a table, you participate in pre-climb training—practice rappelling and belaying under the guidance of our experienced guide.
Get to bed early as you need to wake up at midnight to prepare for your summit push.
Overnight in tented camp.
You get your stuff and head out in pitch darkness, following your guide. You carry in your daypack-packed lunch, water, camera, any memento you want to leave at the summit, and some snacks you can nibble. It is important to start as you need to be on the summit before the afternoon wind blows and brings in the clouds. As the day progresses, it gets very windy and foggy on the mountain.
After hiking up for some time, you reach High Camp. You are clambering up on a rocky slope for about 3 hours and reach Crampon Point. The place is named Crampon Point as this is the place where you put on your crampons. The group progresses on a snowy and icy trail secured by a man-rope from 5700m onwards. Walking on a narrow ridge, you reach the base of Imja Glacier. Enjoy a heartwarming sunrise over the Ama Dablam, Mera, Makalu, Baruntse, Chamlang, and other peaks. The slope tilts at an angle of 45 to 50 degrees making the ascent not very difficult or technical. At the glacier, our guides fix the ropes. Lhotse rears up close as you near Island Peak's summit.
A technical ascent up a vertical wall before the summit is the toughest part of the climb. You climb up the anchor points by attaching and detaching your harness. Cross crevasses using ladders. There will be one or two crevasses en route, depending on the prevalent weather.
You hold on to the fixed rope and walk along the ridgeline, enjoying the views till you reach the summit. After spending some time at the summit savoring your victory and taking pictures, you descend the same route. It is a long and exhausting descent to the base camp. Keep your eyes wide and be careful, as most of the accidents occur while descending. Upon reaching Base Camp celebrate your victory and have refreshments. Later bid goodbye to the crew and head to Chhukung.
Overnight in Chhukung.
A reserve day for emergencies. This day will be used if your summit push is aborted due to bad weather or delays because of ill health or injury. If everything goes as planned, you can complete this trip in 3 days.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons to climb Island Peak. The weather generally remains pleasant during these seasons, offering ideal conditions for climbing. There is sunlight during the daytime, and the skies remain clear. In the afternoon, it may get windy and foggy.
Summer and winter are not the best seasons for climbing as there are heavy snowfall and precipitation during these seasons.
Climbing Island Peak is not easy but is chosen by novice climbers who are serious about mountaineering. The peak also offers a challenge to experienced climbers. The climb can be exhausting and tests your endurance limit to the fullest. But the views are well worth the effort.
Island Peak is the best Himalayan mountain to climb for first-time climbers before taking on the 7000 and 8000-meter giants. Island Peak also offers the ideal condition for acclimatization to those who are planning to climb Mount Everest. The proximity of the peak to Mount Everest makes Island Peak the number choice for Mount Everest expedition groups to practice their climbing skills. The technical sections provide enough opportunities to hone their climbing skills and boost their confidence.
The ascent to the summit involves climbing on rock, snow and ice, rock. There are a few technical portions where you need to use ladders, ropes to belay and rappel down, and an ice axe. On summit day, there will be non-stop walking and climbing for more than 10 hours. This can be extremely exhausting. Therefore one needs to be physically as well as mentally fit to complete this challenge. The previous climbing experience though not essential, can be an added advantage.
Island Peak Climbing Permit is only offered to government recognized trekking agencies. So if you want to climb Island Peak, you need to book your trip through a licensed agency like Third Rock Adventures. Individual trekkers can arrange for trekking permits independently, but peak climbing permits are only given to expedition groups climbing with a licensed agency.
The Island Peak climbing permit fee according to the season:
Your climbing guide is a local Sherpa climber with more than 20 years' climbing experience. He has safely guided clients to Island Peak, Mera Peak, Mount Everest, Manaslu, etc. He is a licensed mountaineering guide and a trained mountaineer. Having lived in the mountains all his life, he knows what to do during critical situations. He has received first aid and wilderness survival training.
While the climbing guide is responsible for the team and takes all the major decisions, he will assist the assistant. Every 2 climbers will be under the care of 1 assistant guide. The assistant guides follow the instructions of the chief climbing guide.
Your training should start at least 2 or 3 months before the start of your trip. If there's a mountaineering training facility near your residence, you can train there. You should include lots of endurance and muscle building exercises. Jog, cycle, lift weights, climb stairs, swim, or go on long hikes carrying a heavy backpack. Have a balanced diet and consult your doctor before booking your trip.
Travel insurance is compulsory to obtain a permit for Island Peak climbing. Please do get an insurance policy that covers the cost of high altitude emergency rescue and evacuation. As you reach a height of 6189 meters, your policy should offer coverage up to that elevation. Besides, the insurance should also offer provisions for hospital bills, canceled flights, lost baggage, injuries, etc.
In Chhukung, you will have your meals at the local teahouse, where your room will be booked. During camping at the Island Peak Base Camp, our kitchen crew will prepare meals for you. You can expect nutritious and energy-giving soups, broths, hot drinks, and meals. On summit day, you take a packed lunch with you, which you will have en route.
At Chhukung, you can buy bottled mineral water or boiled water at the teahouse. If you have a reusable water bottle with a water filtration system, you can get cold water and filter it. At the camp, our crew will provide boiled drinking water.
You will stay overnight at a local teahouse in Chhukung. A single one-person tent will be provided while camping at Island Peak Base Camp. You will find a dining tent furnished at the camping site with chairs and a table to have your meals in comfort, a toilet tent, and a one-person tent for sleeping. We provide mats, but you should bring your sleeping bag. As the nights can be freezing, we recommend you bring a 5 season sleeping bag.
The teahouse will have electricity. You can charge your devices by paying a fee to the teahouse owner. At our campsite in Island Peak Base Camp, we use solar panels for power. You can charge small devices using the charging ports.
It is mandatory to tip your guides and crew. If you can reach the summit, the guides should be offered an additional summit bonus along with the tip.
A climbing boot graded B1, which is a snug fit for your crampons, is a must. If you are planning more summits in the coming seasons, you can opt for B2 or B3-graded boots. 8,000-meter triple boots are recommended if you want to keep your feet and toes warm while climbing.
You can rent climbing boots and a sleeping bag at Chhukung from the rental outlets. But do keep in mind that climbing boots of size 12 or greater are not available for hire at Nepal's rental outlets. If you have large feet and your shoe size is 12 or 12+, you need to bring your own climbing boots.
Recommended Read: Packing List For Peak Climbing In Nepal
Third Rock Adventures has been successfully organizing climbing expeditions in the Nepal Himalaya for several years. We have some of the best Sherpa guides in Nepal working for us. Our team takes care of all the minute details and checks and cross-checks every piece of equipment used while climbing. We take your safety very seriously and make sure that all the safety rules while climbing are followed.
An easy way to book this trip is by visiting our website and filling up the booking form online. You can also book this trip by sending us an email. A booking deposit (20% of the total trip cost) is required to receive a confirmation of your booking. The balance should be paid less than 30 days before the start of your trip or after you arrive in Kathmandu.
Payment via credit card, bank transfer, Western Union, etc., is accepted. Our bank account details will be sent to you in case you want to send a wire transfer.
The camp is set up only at the Island Peak Base Camp.
Yes, travel insurance is a must to climb Island peak. Make sure your policy has a provision for high altitude rescue and evacuation above 6000 meters.
No, Everest is not visible from Island Peak, However one can enjoy close up views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Makalu, and Baruntse from the mountain.