Climb Mera Peak and Island Peak in one go. Make the best use of your trip to Nepal by climbing two peaks at once. While Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, Island Peak is one of the most popular trekking peaks. The crossing of the dangerous Amphu Laptsa Pass covered with ice shelves and seracs increases the thrill factor. This climbing adventure which lasts for 24 days will challenge you to the fullest.
You walk through high valleys, rhododendron forests, and Sherpa villages. As you reach above the tree line the oxygen level decreases. You walk on elevations rising to 5000 meters and cross high mountain passes, lakes, and glaciers.
Walking across snow and ice you navigate ice falls and crevasses to reach the summits of Mera and island peaks. The summit push is grueling and lasts for about 8 to 12 hours. The extreme cold and thin air will make your ascent to the top doubly challenging. But the experience of standing atop the summits, close to the highest mountains on earth including Mount Everest is unbeatable.
You trek across the Kumbhu Region and cross the river valleys of Dudh Koshi, Hinku, Hongu, and Imja to get to the mountains. While the Dudh Koshi valley is dotted with charming traditional Sherpa villages the Hinku and the Hongu Valleys are filled with yak pastures, summer camps of yak herders, glaciers, and mountain lakes. You walk past the Makalu Barun National Park and Sagarmatha National Park which are home to an amazing mountain ecosystem. This is the ultimate trekking and climbing adventure that will surely occupy the top spot in your list of most daring journeys.
|Day 1||Arrive in Kathmandu (1,400m/4,593ft) and Transfer to hotel|
|Day 2||Trip preparation in Kathmandu|
|Day 3||Fly to Lukla and trek to Paiya (2,730m/8,956ft)|
|Day 4||Trek to Panggom (2,846/9,337ft) 6-7 hours trek|
|Day 5||Trek to Ramailo Danda (3,276m/10,748ft) 5-6 hours trek|
|Day 6||Trek to Chhatra Khola (2,800m/9,186ft) 4-5 hours trek|
|Day 7||Trek to Kothe (3,691m/12,109ft) 6-7 hours trek|
|Day 8||Trek to Thaknak (4,358m/14,297ft) 3-4 hours trek|
|Day 9||Trek to Khare (5,045m/16,486ft) 2-3 hours|
|Day 10||Acclimatization Day in Khare and Pre-Climb Training|
|Day 11||Trek to Mera High Camp (5,780m/18,958ft) 5-6 hours trek|
|Day 12||Summit Mera Peak (6,461m/21,1907ft) and trek to Kongma Dingma (4850m/ 15,912ft)|
|Day 13||Contingency Day for the summit|
|Day 14||Rest Day at Kongma Dingma (4850m/ 15,912ft)|
|Day 15||Trek to Seto Pokhari (5035m/16,520ft)|
|Day 16||Trek to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp South (5,650m/18,538ft) 5-6 hours trek|
|Day 17||Cross Amphu Lapcha (5,845m/19,177 ft) and trek to Island Peak Base Camp 5,200m/17,061ft 9 hours trek|
|Day 18||Rest day at Island Peak Base Camp (5,200m/17,061ft)|
|Day 19||Summit Island Peak (6,189m/20,306ft) and trek to Chukkung (4,730m/15,519ft)|
|Day 20||Contingency day for summit|
|Day 21||Trek to Namche (3,438m/11,280ft) 7-8 hours trek|
|Day 22||Trek to Lukla (2,800m/9,187ft) 6-7 hours trek|
|Day 23||Fly to Kathmandu (1,400m/4,593ft)|
|Day 24||Final Departure from Kathmandu|
Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing is an elite climbing adventure that takes you to the summit of two of Nepal's most popular trekking peaks. It is a challenging high-altitude journey that takes you across the dramatic river valleys in the Khumbu Region. Walk across thick jungles, picturesque Sherpa villages, rhododendron forests, and high suspension bridges. Traverse high mountain passes, glaciers, and stunning mountain lakes. To reach the twin summits, you navigate dangerous crevasses and climb steep ice walls. Enjoy close up views of 8000 and 7000-meter peaks.
You begin your journey from Kathmandu with a flight to Lukla, the 'Gateway to Everest.' You walk across the wild and uninhabited Hinku valley to Mera Peak Base Camp. This part of the trail lies off-the-beaten-path and trekkers rarely visit this area. Enjoy walking in solitude while taking in the pristine views of the forest and snow-covered peaks. You spend a night camping at Mera High Camp before making the final summit push to Mera Peak. The summit of Mera Peak is the highest point of your trip.
After your summit, you push ahead and cross the Hongu Valley. En route is the challenging and difficult crossing of Amphu Laptsa pass. This is one of the most dangerous mountain passes in the Himalayas. Technical climbing skills are required to cross this pass. Using fixed ropes, jumar and harness you climb up the ice shelves and cross the ridge. The steep descent over a rocky slope is challenging even for seasoned climbers.
Walking across the Imja Glacier, you reach the Island Peak Base Camp. Island Peak, which is locally known as Imja Tse, was named by Eric Shipton as it looks like a frozen island rising above the Imja Valley. From the base camp, we attempt to reach the summit of Island Peak via a straightforward route. There are crevasses en route where we use ladders to get across. The last section of the climb involves using a fixed rope to climb up an ice wall to reach the summit. Surrounded by the giants of the Himalayas, it feels awesome to stand on the top. It is a grueling but satisfying descent to Chukkung.
You return to Lukla via the Dudh Koshi valley. The stops at the Sherpa villages of Pangboche, Namche, and Lukla will give you an insight into the Sherpa lifestyle and culture. During your journey, you will be staying at teahouses and tented camps. While camping the local crew will prepare nutritious and healthy meals for you.
The best seasons for Mera and Island Peak Climbing - 24 days are spring and autumn. The weather remains stable and clear most of the time during these seasons which makes climbing easy. It is also possible to take this trip during early winter if you are not very concerned about the extreme cold.
This is a challenging adventure which people with experience of high altitude trekking and hiking can do. A high degree of physical fitness and endurance level is a must. The previous climbing experience though not required, will be helpful. Novice climbers will be taught basic climbing skills at the pre-climb training camp. An experienced climbing and trekking crew led by a Sherpa climbing guide with more than two decades of experience will help you achieve your goal. Safety procedures will be strictly followed. All permits are included in the package.
Once you arrive in Kathmandu, our representative will meet you at the airport and drive you to your hotel. Check-in and take a rest.
Overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.
You will meet your guide today and he will brief you on your upcoming climb. He will share some important tips and inform you about the condition of the route. There will be a final gear and equipment check after the briefing.
As Ason, Kathmandu's oldest market lie close to Thamel you can take a stroll down the bazaar and take photographs.
Overnight at a hotel in Kathmandu.
If you are lucky you will get a seat on the first flight to Lukla which flies directly from Kathmandu. If not, then you will be driven to Rammechhap Airport from where you board your plane. It is a thrilling experience to fly to Lukla, set amid high mountains and cliffs. Once you reach Lukla, you will meet the rest of the crew and head to Paiya. Take the trail to the south and head down to Surkey Village. From the village, the trail goes upwards to Chutok La. A short descent from the pass brings you to Paiya, a small settlement, and the first overnight stop.
Overnight at a teahouse in Paiya.
Walk past terraced fields, farms, and a lush forest. Cross the Paiya Khola, a small river, and climb up a mountain pass, Khari La. The trail follows an up and down route. Hike through thick rhododendron and bamboo forest and arrive at the picturesque Sherpa settlement of Panggom. Head to a teahouse and rest your tired legs.
Overnight at a teahouse in Panggom.
Leave Panggom and make your way towards Ramailo Danda. It is an upward ascent through a pristine rhododendron forest to Pankongma La (3174m), a mountain pass. We cross the Dudh Koshi River Valley and walk into the Hingku Valley. En route, we savor breathtaking views of Numbur Himal, Kongde, and Manju Peak. We stop briefly at Ningsow for lunch. Afterward, trek up and down to Ramailo Danda. From here we get our first view of Mera Peak.
Overnight at a teahouse in Ramailo Danda.
There are no human settlements or villages en route and the trail is wild and challenging. The park is home to Snow leopard, Red panda, Himalayan Tahr, musk deer, and many rare species of birds and plants. We stop at a quiet spot and have our packed lunch. Climbing stone staircases and walking past rocky paths we finally arrive at Chhatra Khola, our stop for the night.
Overnight at a teahouse in Chhatra Khola.
Taking the northward trail we walk past a thick bamboo forest and walk towards the Hinku Khola. We enter the Makalu Barun National Park and walk through a pristine trail. The park's area stretches all the way to the Nepal-Tibet border. The Hinku Valley receives very few trekkers and chances are we may be the only group on the trail. A gradual up and down and after crossing a bridge before we finally arrive in Kothe.
Overnight at a teahouse in Kothe.
After Kothe, we reach the Upper Hinku valley where the treeline disappears. There are no villages en route only 'kharkas' the summer camps of yak herders dot the landscape. Walk past Gondishung and Lungsumgba Gompa, a two-centuries-old Buddhist shrine. Lying underneath an enormous boulder, the local crew pay homage to deities burning incense.
En-route enjoy amazing views of Charpati Himal, Mera Peak, Kusum Kanguru, and Thamserku. After walking for about an hour we reach Thaknak, a summer camp of yak herders. Charpati Himal lies close to the teahouse and we can see the whole mountain.
Overnight at a teahouse in Thaknak.
Today's walk involves an ascent to the Dig Glacier and the Charpati Tal, a mountain lake. With stunning views of the Kyeshar glacier, Mera Peak, and Charpati Himal we walk down to Dig Kharka. A tough crossing of the Hinku Nup and Shar glaciers brings us to Khare. Khare lies at the bottom of Mera Peak and is also known as Mera Peak Base Camp. We climb Mera Peak from here.
Overnight at a teahouse in Khare.
Today you will spend your time acclimatizing and practicing your climbing moves at the pre-climb training camp. Our Sherpa climbing guides will teach you how to properly use climbing equipment like jumar, carabiner, belay device, ice axe, harness, etc. They will teach you the basic and safe techniques to scale an incline using a rope and harness.
This training is valuable and helpful if you are a novice climber. A final gear and equipment check will be followed by final packing for the summit push. Please keep in mind climbing boots of size 12 and greater are not readily available in Nepal. If your shoe size is 12 or 12 plus you need to bring it with you from your home country.
Overnight at a teahouse in Khare.
Take the steep and rocky path to Mera La. The three summits of Mera Peak – Mera North(6476m), Mera Central(6461m), and Mera South(6065m) – gleam invitingly. We will be climbing the summit of Mera Central. Crossing the Mera glacier we reach Mera Peak high camp. It is an easy hike up a slope with no technical climbing involved.
On reaching Mera High Camp, the crew serves us hot drinks. Enjoy views of five of the fourteen highest peaks in the world- Mount Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu(8485m), Cho Oyu(8188m), and Kanchenjunga (8586m). Chamlang (7319m), Gaurishanker (7134m), and Baruntse (7129m) also appear close. A single sleeping tent will be given to each climber. Food will be prepared by the local crew in a kitchen tent.
Overnight at a tented camp in Mera High Camp.
At 2 AM we prepare for the final summit push. After breakfast, we head out and rope up. A man-rope will secure our group. Hike up the glacier in a single file. No technical climbing is required in this section. The thin air and cold are the only factors that make the ascent difficult. Above 5000 meters we struggle to breathe properly and taking a step forward takes a lot of effort.
The last 40-50 meters to the summit is the most challenging portion. It is a steep incline and fixed rope and jumars are used to climb to the summit. By 9 or 10 AM we reach the summit. Amazing views of Mount Everest (8848m), Makalu (8481m), Kanchenjunga (8586m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Lhotse(8516m), and other peaks surround us.
After spending 5 or 10 minutes savoring the victory and taking pictures we head down via the same route. We reach Mera High Camp have some refreshment. Later we hike down to make a quick descent to Khare. From Khare, we head east. Taking a downward trail we reach Kongma Dingma where we rest for the night.
Overnight at a tented camp in Kongma Dingma.
A buffer day in case our summit bid gets canceled due to bad weather or ill health. This extra day will also come in handy if our domestic flight gets delayed or any unforeseen emergency. If everything goes as planned, you can use this day to explore some more places on the trail or in Kathmandu.
An extra day to rewind, relax and recharge your energy for the crossing of Amphu Lapcha.
Overnight at a tented camp in Kongma Dingma.
Leaving Kongma Dingma we walk past yak pastures and summer camps of yak herders. We proceed towards Seto Pokhari enjoying captivating views of Baruntse and Chamlang Himal.
Overnight at a tented camp in Seto Pokhari.
Climbing up a snowy moraine we reach the beautiful Seto Pokhari, a glacial lake. Head to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp enjoying views of Mount Everest and lakes along the Hongu basin. A walk past the Hongu Pokhari above the Hongu valley brings us finally to the Amphu Lapcha Base Camp.
Overnight at a tented Camp in Amphu Lapcha Base Camp.
After leaving the base camp you make your way across a snowy trail to Amphu Lapcha Pass. You are in the dramatic Upper Hongu Valley which is one of the wildest areas in the Everest Region. Cold, Harsh, and challenging, no human settlements are found at this place.
After walking for about 4 to 5 hours you arrive at the pass. The pass looks stunning but daunting. Covered with ice shelves and serac cliffs, it is a steep incline and you use fixed rope, jumar, and ice axe to ascend the pass. This is one of the most difficult sections of your trip. The top is a narrow ridge filled with rocks. You get down using a fixed rope again. A walk through the Imja Glacier brings you to the Imja Tsho Lake in the Imja Valley. From here climb up a rocky moraine and head to Island peak Base Camp.
Overnight at a tented camp in Island Peak Base Camp.
The crossing of the Amphu Lapcha pass is grueling and leaves you exhausted. Rest and get your energy back. There will be checking of gear and equipment before the summit push. Have an early night for the big day tomorrow.
Overnight at a tented camp in Base Camp.
After breakfast, we carry your pack and head out at 1 AM. Our daypack consists of snacks, camera, packed lunch, water, and any memento we want to leave at the summit.
After ascending a rocky path you reach High Camp. Continue on a slope for about 3 hours to reach Crampon Point, the place where we put on our crampons as the trail becomes icy and snowy. We move ahead on a frozen trail in a group. From 5700m onwards the group will be secured by a man-rope. Walking on a narrow ridge brings us to the base of Imja Glacier. The sunrise over the Makalu, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, and Chamlang look stunning. As the slope is at an angle of 45 to 50 degrees the ascent is not that technical. The guides fix the ropes at the glacier.
As we near the summit Lhotse appears very close. Lhotse hides the summit of Everest, so Mount Everest is not visible from Island Peak. The climb up a vertical wall using fixed rope before reaching the summit is the toughest part. We ascend the anchor points and cross crevasses using ladders.
Holding on to the fixed rope and we walk along the ridgeline to the summit. The views are amazing. We have done it! At the summit, we take pictures and return via the same route. The descent is long and exhausting. We need to be extra careful as most of the accidents at Island Peak happen during descents. On reaching Base Camp we take rest and celebrate our victory. Later in the day, we hike down to Chukkung.
Overnight at a teahouse in Chukkung.
A buffer day in case you are not able to summit on the D-day due to bad weather or any other reason.
Cross the Chukkung glacier and walk down to the Dudh Koshi River valley. Walk past Dingboche and descend to the Imja Khola(river). After crossing the river an upward trail brings you to the Sherpa village of Pangboche.
Leaving Pangboche you climb down a path filled with amazing alpine scenery and views of Ama Dablam. Cross the village of Debuche and arrive at the small settlement of Tengboche. Spend some time exploring the village and visit the magnificent Tengboche Monastery. This is the oldest and the most important monastery in the Khumbu Region. Later take the trail to Namche. After you arrive in Namche you can enjoy a hot shower and a good meal of your choice.
Overnight at a teahouse in Namche.
Crossing the metal bridges covered with prayer flags and pine forests you descend to Lukla. Walk past the village of Monjo and the gate of the Sagarmatha National Park. An easy descent via the village of Phakding brings you once again to Lukla. Celebrations follow and you spend a joyous evening with the local crew celebrating your achievement.
Overnight at a teahouse in Lukla.
Bid goodbye to the mountains and fly to Kathmandu. Once you reach Kathmandu, check-in at your hotel and take a rest. Evening or late afternoon you can explore Thamel by yourself and shop for souvenirs.
We will drop you at the international airport well on time (3 hours before departure) to catch your flight. If you wish to explore more of the Himalayas do get in touch with us. We will be more than happy to organize a trip for you.